Rome - Friday

Tired from walking the previous day, we breakfasted on the terrace with expectations of the same physical activity. Breakfast was much better and ants weren't parading through the eggs, but the staff was harried and the coffee wasn't really happening.

We took a cab to the Coliseum and were greeted by Roman soldiers offering pictures for a price (we passed). As were contemplating ticket choices, we were approached about joining an English speaking tour that included admission and bypassed the long entry lines. We chose to spring for the extra bucks and were soon inside the first of the three concentric wall that make up the stadium. We saw where the restoration had cleaned the porous stone and where some was blackened with centuries of contamination.




The stairs leading into the stadium are rather steep and I believe the handrails are a recent addition. I thought of how many must have tripped on their togas as they entered. The guide told us the stadium had been built as a 'gift' to the people of Rome, but also as a way to keep them compliant by providing free spectacles and often free meat from the wild animals killed in 'sport'. Historians say some 5-9k wild beasts were killed in the opening days, not to mention the criminals, slaves, and Christians who would not bow down to the emperor-God.

Imagine being held below the sandy floor of the Coliseum sand to soak up the blood (stadia = sand) waiting for that moment that you would be herded up and into the stadium to face a death by beasts, gladiator or even crucifixion as 50k people cheered your demise. How strong is your faith?

A good portion of the Coliseum was later scavenged for churches and monuments in Rome's later history including the iron or bronze which held massive stones together without mortar.

We left there and entered the Palatine, the hill that once housed a palace of 14k sq. meters high on a hill where Rome's traffic is silent. Fallen columns and portions of walls abound and you think of those Romans who lived here nearly 2000 years ago. Walking down the hill through the Forum, more ruins were everywhere and then up the hill to Mount Capitolina where government offices operate. A great courtyard with an imposing stairway which we descended to the street.

Next door was the monument to Victor Emmanuel. Built in the late 1800s it is a towering presence and fitting monument to the unknown soldier in this city of towering monuments. After cooling our feet in the adjoining fountain, we walked to the Pantheon and ate in the plaza (3 pm) before entering the domed church with a hole at the top of the dome, a dome as high as it is wide. Then some afternoon gelati and a stroll to the Trevi fountain and a cab ride back to the hotel.


Later, it was another dinner at an outdoor cafe around 9 pm followed by the required gelati after a crazy cab ride home - "I'm good driver".