We docked around 6 a.m. and finally we weren't rolling anymore. I slept through it all, but Ash had a hard time sleeping.
I dressed in my shorts and aloha shirt (the only clothes left out) and went to breakfast to find it just POURING outside. And it didn't want to let up! We all got in line to disembark at 8:30 and it seemed to lessen a bit, but then it just intensified, so it was a mad dash off the gangway, a short run to the tent with our bags and then a roll over to the waiting tent - we all got soaked.
A half hour later, it was our turn for a taxi and the short expensive ride to our hotel, Villa Victoria. However, rooms weren't yet available so we had some tea/coffee and waited while 'reading' French magazines. One room was available at 11:30 and we let Ashley and Bryce take that one.
About 12:45, the second room was ready although the 'perfume' from the recent cleaning was very strong so we opened the windows and all headed out for a walk around Nice as the rain had stopped. Walking down to the plage a fair number of people were out and about and a few were trying to catch some rays on the stone/pebble lined beach. It didn't look that comfortable, but at 15 euros for a lounge chair, umbrella and shower, the free alternative was at least reasonable.
We walked into the narrow streets of the Old Town and window shopped or stuck our heads in to look around. Pictures were plentiful if only I'd brought my camera, but Bryce and Carolyn took several.
Stopping at a sidewalk restaurant for crepes and tea the rain began again so we watched the soaked and the wet passing by in various states of hurry. It let up enough to allow us a relatively dry return to the hotel.
We all settled in for naps in the late afternoon before heading back to Old Town for our last supper with the four of us. Another good meal and wine as we were street serenaded by a Ukrainian group whose CD we now own. Then it was back to the hotel, farewells for me and packing until 11:30 so I'd be ready for my 5:45 taxi.
I was awake at 4:45 and laid in bed until 5 before showering and dressing and leaving Carolyn with a big hug and many kisses. Now its the all-day return trip through Zurich-Dallas-SNA. On the tarmac in Zurich, a full 180 degree rainbow shone - a good sign for a long flight.
Thursday, August 25, 2005
Wednesday, August 24, 2005
Cruise - Day 7 - Monaco
Our cabin was wharfside and actually below the wharf, so it was especially easy to sleep until 10 this morning. Ashley and Bryce had their "Privacy Please" sign out so we headed up for continental breakfast in the Compass Rose.
After breakfast we left the ship and found our way to this fabulous market which was entered by elevator and through a tunnel. Fresh fish piled high on ice, hundreds of types of cheese, two longs aisles of yogurt. We bought a few herbs and some cheese.
We next caught the no. 2 bus which took us to the plaza below the castle. We just enjoyed the sights from this quiet tree lined area on a promontory overlooking the harbor and the sea. Beautiful buildings, small shops and cafes lined the narrow streets adjoining the castle .
Then we walked down the many steps to the wharf and the ship for lunch. Once again on deck we ran into Ash and Bryce and ate our last deckside meal. We grabbed our suits and towels from the ship and walked to the sea side of the wharf where a large concrete stepped 'beach' made swimming and sunbathing easy. We all swam in the Med, but the second time in we were dissuaded when we spotted small jellyfish near the steps.
At four, the large 250+ foot yacht moored beside us raised anchor and we did soon after. The wind had come up and the swells were larger than we'd seen before. In fact, Bryce opened his curtains after a short afternoon nap to see a large swell wash completely over his porthole!
The wind was blowing at 21 knots and soon all the sails were unfurled and the engines feathered as we ran with the wind to eliminate the pitching at 7 knots. Everyone staggered a bit more around the ship and some were ill, but we all managed.
Dinner was Indonesian in the Bistro (no. 4) and as always, excellent. Then down to our cabins to pack so our suitcases would be out by 1 a.m. Around 10, we four took a 'stroll', or stagger, around the upper decks and the wind was really blowing. We ducked in the bridge to be sure they had all under control and then headed below for bed. In the distance, lightning was evident, but the weather was predicted to be nice in Nice.
After breakfast we left the ship and found our way to this fabulous market which was entered by elevator and through a tunnel. Fresh fish piled high on ice, hundreds of types of cheese, two longs aisles of yogurt. We bought a few herbs and some cheese.
We next caught the no. 2 bus which took us to the plaza below the castle. We just enjoyed the sights from this quiet tree lined area on a promontory overlooking the harbor and the sea. Beautiful buildings, small shops and cafes lined the narrow streets adjoining the castle .
Then we walked down the many steps to the wharf and the ship for lunch. Once again on deck we ran into Ash and Bryce and ate our last deckside meal. We grabbed our suits and towels from the ship and walked to the sea side of the wharf where a large concrete stepped 'beach' made swimming and sunbathing easy. We all swam in the Med, but the second time in we were dissuaded when we spotted small jellyfish near the steps.
At four, the large 250+ foot yacht moored beside us raised anchor and we did soon after. The wind had come up and the swells were larger than we'd seen before. In fact, Bryce opened his curtains after a short afternoon nap to see a large swell wash completely over his porthole!
The wind was blowing at 21 knots and soon all the sails were unfurled and the engines feathered as we ran with the wind to eliminate the pitching at 7 knots. Everyone staggered a bit more around the ship and some were ill, but we all managed.
Dinner was Indonesian in the Bistro (no. 4) and as always, excellent. Then down to our cabins to pack so our suitcases would be out by 1 a.m. Around 10, we four took a 'stroll', or stagger, around the upper decks and the wind was really blowing. We ducked in the bridge to be sure they had all under control and then headed below for bed. In the distance, lightning was evident, but the weather was predicted to be nice in Nice.
Cruise - Day 6 - St. Tropez
Anchored off St. Tropez, we took tenders into town and the small harbor. It reminded me of some four star hotel where all the Jags, Benz, and Porsches are parked pointing out adjacent to the hotel entry. Only in this case they were yachts, mostly power in the 80 to 150' range that maneuvered in the tight space with precision.
We walked along the boulevard which curved around the harbor which was filled with shops and people. The chic quotient was definitely elevated as thin, tan, French women dressed in form fitting shirt dresses walked in stiletto heels. We wondered if they'd come off the yachts or were looking for an invitation to cruise!
We tendered back to the ship in now choppy seas with the wind blowing quite strong. I wonder about the seamanship of some of the tender crew as we slam against the gangway.
It was a little after noon and the sports marina deck was only going to be open to two, so we went down to check out the sailing possibilities. They wanted to know how well I sailed (I lied), and we were given a 12' dagger board boat. It was a little tippy getting in and we almost capsized but then we got our fannies on the right side and took off. We sailed off the stem of the Wind Surf through chop and spray and getting wet. Our first tack was a jibe which was a little hairy but from then on we did well sailing fast on the bay of St. Tropez. After a half an hour, we brought it in soaked but pleased we hadn't turned over. My tricep hurt from hanging onto the main sheet (they didn't want us to cleat it down because of the likelihood of capsizing).
Meanwhile, Ashley and Bryce had gotten on shore and quickly found a 50cc scooter to rent and had toured the area around St. Tropez for several hours.
At around 3, the Wind Surf unfurled its sails and we sailed east towards Monte Carlo along the French coast. At around 7 as the sun was inching closer to setting behind the mountains that rim Monaco, we dropped anchor offshore until our berth was vacated around midnight.
After dinner, we were again tendered to shore, a good number dressed in ties and coats and slinky dresses ready to go to the casino. The cruise line provided shuttles for us which was quite helpful. The scene outside was chaotic with tourist milling about the Ferraris, Lamborghinis, Rolls, Benz, etc.
Walking inside we had to check our camera and purchase an entrance ticket at 10 euros per person before we were able to enter the casino. The casino was actually fairly small with only a few blackjack and roulette tables. The blackjack minimums were 25 and 200 euros. Bryce and I watched the 200 table for quite awhile where the dealer gets his second card after everyone has gotten their third or fourth card and players could bet on another person's hand when they split or doubled down.
After losing about 20 euros at the slots and Ash and Carolyn spending 22 euros for two martinis, we had spent our wad and got back to the ship around 12:30.
We walked along the boulevard which curved around the harbor which was filled with shops and people. The chic quotient was definitely elevated as thin, tan, French women dressed in form fitting shirt dresses walked in stiletto heels. We wondered if they'd come off the yachts or were looking for an invitation to cruise!
We tendered back to the ship in now choppy seas with the wind blowing quite strong. I wonder about the seamanship of some of the tender crew as we slam against the gangway.
It was a little after noon and the sports marina deck was only going to be open to two, so we went down to check out the sailing possibilities. They wanted to know how well I sailed (I lied), and we were given a 12' dagger board boat. It was a little tippy getting in and we almost capsized but then we got our fannies on the right side and took off. We sailed off the stem of the Wind Surf through chop and spray and getting wet. Our first tack was a jibe which was a little hairy but from then on we did well sailing fast on the bay of St. Tropez. After a half an hour, we brought it in soaked but pleased we hadn't turned over. My tricep hurt from hanging onto the main sheet (they didn't want us to cleat it down because of the likelihood of capsizing).
Meanwhile, Ashley and Bryce had gotten on shore and quickly found a 50cc scooter to rent and had toured the area around St. Tropez for several hours.
At around 3, the Wind Surf unfurled its sails and we sailed east towards Monte Carlo along the French coast. At around 7 as the sun was inching closer to setting behind the mountains that rim Monaco, we dropped anchor offshore until our berth was vacated around midnight.
After dinner, we were again tendered to shore, a good number dressed in ties and coats and slinky dresses ready to go to the casino. The cruise line provided shuttles for us which was quite helpful. The scene outside was chaotic with tourist milling about the Ferraris, Lamborghinis, Rolls, Benz, etc.
Walking inside we had to check our camera and purchase an entrance ticket at 10 euros per person before we were able to enter the casino. The casino was actually fairly small with only a few blackjack and roulette tables. The blackjack minimums were 25 and 200 euros. Bryce and I watched the 200 table for quite awhile where the dealer gets his second card after everyone has gotten their third or fourth card and players could bet on another person's hand when they split or doubled down.
After losing about 20 euros at the slots and Ash and Carolyn spending 22 euros for two martinis, we had spent our wad and got back to the ship around 12:30.
Cruise - Day 5 - Portofino
A very pretty port, small with older wooden style fishing vessels with the larger yachts (and us) anchored outside. Taking the tender in we walked around the port which was surrounded by 3 and 4 story pastel-hued homes many with architectural features faux painted on the walls.
We walked a small stone pathway with hedges and flowering vines up to the church and then to the castle. We paid our 4 euros per person and entered the grounds. The castle was decorated in rather odd feminine interpretations and pictures from the 50s and 60s of old movie stars and politicians and other notables like Sophia Loren, Winston Churchill, John Wayne, Elizabeth Taylor and Eddie Fisher, etc.
The views from the castle gardens were great and worth the walk and the euros. It would be quite romantic and restful to stay here, but not in August!
Taking the tender back to the ship we hoped to check out the water sports deck. The first time in operation, the deck was quite busy, but Carolyn and I were able to go on a swimming raft trip just a few hundred yards from the boat. I was the first to dive in followed by the rest, but one of our fellow swimmers was stung by a jellyfish which sent all of us back to the zodiac and an end to our swimming.
Dinner was in the main restaurant where three of us had tournedos of beef accompanied by a delicious wine which the wine steward gave us for $22 v. $50. Then it was off to the chocolate buffet where we ate even though we weren't hungry.
We talked with Jimmy and Margo and watched Jimmy lose at the blackjack table. Then it was off to our room to watch our 3rd Nicholas Cage film, "Family Man". A fun one even though the DVD would occasionally freeze for half a minute or so. To sleep at 1:30.
We walked a small stone pathway with hedges and flowering vines up to the church and then to the castle. We paid our 4 euros per person and entered the grounds. The castle was decorated in rather odd feminine interpretations and pictures from the 50s and 60s of old movie stars and politicians and other notables like Sophia Loren, Winston Churchill, John Wayne, Elizabeth Taylor and Eddie Fisher, etc.
The views from the castle gardens were great and worth the walk and the euros. It would be quite romantic and restful to stay here, but not in August!
Taking the tender back to the ship we hoped to check out the water sports deck. The first time in operation, the deck was quite busy, but Carolyn and I were able to go on a swimming raft trip just a few hundred yards from the boat. I was the first to dive in followed by the rest, but one of our fellow swimmers was stung by a jellyfish which sent all of us back to the zodiac and an end to our swimming.
Dinner was in the main restaurant where three of us had tournedos of beef accompanied by a delicious wine which the wine steward gave us for $22 v. $50. Then it was off to the chocolate buffet where we ate even though we weren't hungry.
We talked with Jimmy and Margo and watched Jimmy lose at the blackjack table. Then it was off to our room to watch our 3rd Nicholas Cage film, "Family Man". A fun one even though the DVD would occasionally freeze for half a minute or so. To sleep at 1:30.
Cruise - Day 4 - Livorno
This port was a replacement for one closer to the Cinque Terra, and it is an industrial port. We opted for the 9.5 hour tour to CT which left a little after 7:30. Fortified by coffee and croissants ordered the night before from room service, we boarded the bus.
We drove through the Ligoria countryside through Livorno and passed Pisa with its leaning tower visible in the distance along the mountain range which shown white in parts like snow which was actually marble quarries from which Michelangelo chose the blocks of stone for his works.
We arrived in Spezia and picked up two additional tour guides who narrated as we drove to Manarola where we walked down through a tight street and 4 story homes over a street that covered the once open stream.
From there, after a quick snack, we walked back towards Riomaggiore along 'lovers land', a walkway which hugs the coast with breathtaking views of sparkling seas. Rio was built similarly in a small canyon with stone-walled vineyards carved into the steep hillside. Then by boat to Vernazza. The boat crew was fantastic in their ability to lasso the moorings and place a rampway from the bow to the shore while the pilot put the boat in an easy reverse to keep the proper distance from bow to shore.
We grabbed lunch in a restaurant built into the harbor fortress with views out to sea. Then we walked out onto the rocky breakwater to swim. Carolyn had some difficulty with the last step and ended up on her back between two rocks. We lifted her up and we all dove into the Med.
Great swimming! We got out and took a brief outdoor shower and hurried to the town square to find our group had already left for the train station. We hurried to follow and met up with them to find the train was 10 minutes late, thankfully. We took the train back to La Spezia and met up with our bus to trace our way back to Livorne.
A dinner at the main restaurant, a Med buffet which was followed by a staff talent show featuring songs, Indonesian and Filipino dances and a garage band. Not the most talented, but it was fun or funny.
We drove through the Ligoria countryside through Livorno and passed Pisa with its leaning tower visible in the distance along the mountain range which shown white in parts like snow which was actually marble quarries from which Michelangelo chose the blocks of stone for his works.
We arrived in Spezia and picked up two additional tour guides who narrated as we drove to Manarola where we walked down through a tight street and 4 story homes over a street that covered the once open stream.
From there, after a quick snack, we walked back towards Riomaggiore along 'lovers land', a walkway which hugs the coast with breathtaking views of sparkling seas. Rio was built similarly in a small canyon with stone-walled vineyards carved into the steep hillside. Then by boat to Vernazza. The boat crew was fantastic in their ability to lasso the moorings and place a rampway from the bow to the shore while the pilot put the boat in an easy reverse to keep the proper distance from bow to shore.
We grabbed lunch in a restaurant built into the harbor fortress with views out to sea. Then we walked out onto the rocky breakwater to swim. Carolyn had some difficulty with the last step and ended up on her back between two rocks. We lifted her up and we all dove into the Med.
Great swimming! We got out and took a brief outdoor shower and hurried to the town square to find our group had already left for the train station. We hurried to follow and met up with them to find the train was 10 minutes late, thankfully. We took the train back to La Spezia and met up with our bus to trace our way back to Livorne.
A dinner at the main restaurant, a Med buffet which was followed by a staff talent show featuring songs, Indonesian and Filipino dances and a garage band. Not the most talented, but it was fun or funny.
Cruise - Day 3 - Elba
Awoke to find ourselves in Elba, a very picturesque small harbor with plenty of mid-size yachts tied stern first to the quay. Each with simple to complex stern ramps.
We walked right along the marina front - the air was still and already beginning to get warm. Several hundred yards from our ship we turned left through a stone arch and into a central walking square with steps leading in three directions.
We took the center stairway and passed apartments/houses with laundry hanging from the upper windows or with window boxes blooming with geraniums. We continued up towards Napoleon's villa, now a museum, which contained some original furnishings, dishes and his hat. With gorgeous views over a garden and out to crystal blue seas, and to the right a stone lighthouse which stood slightly higher as did a fort to the left, it didn't seem so bad a place to be in exile.
We walked up to the walls of the fort, but you couldn't actually enter the interior. From there, we found another way down - stair after stair.
Bryce was hoping to rent a scooter to explore more of Elba, but at noon it seemed they had all been rented, and we were getting a bit cranky. One place still had a car available so when Carolyn knocked him down 10 euros, we rented it and I handed the keys to Bryce while I handled the navigation. Bryce converts easily from right-hand to left-hand drive (or vice versa) and he did an admirable job of maneuvering through the narrow corners and especially the densely parked streets leading to Bordido. You almost had to tuck the exterior mirrors in to pass each other. But since the parking would have required an hour's walk, we continued on to Porcchio, where we found a parking lot first and a restaurant for lunch, second.
Then we made our way to the beach and found a patch of sand at the far end which was big enough for we four that wasn't controlled by a beach hotel. We swam and sunned for about 2 hours, and then drove back to town, returned the car, and boarded the ship with about 1/2 hour to spare before we set sail. As we set sail, we performed a sort of water ballet with our sister ship, Wind Star, as we crossed each other's wakes while everyone waved and took pictures.
Dinner again at the Bistro (you're only supposed to go twice, I think we did four) for the steakhouse experience. Carolyn and Bryce had surf and turf, Ash and I just did the turf, mine preceded by a caesar salad and a cleansing sorbet. On the side, I had the double stuffed baked potato with bacon - Wanda will have to kick it up a notch!
Ash headed to bed, Carolyn to an art lecture, and Bryce and I to the casino. $100 plunked down, I stayed about even until the dealer began pushing my 20 or 19 with his 20 or 19 and then pulling 4 or 5 cards to a 21. Down about half, I retired.
We walked right along the marina front - the air was still and already beginning to get warm. Several hundred yards from our ship we turned left through a stone arch and into a central walking square with steps leading in three directions.
We took the center stairway and passed apartments/houses with laundry hanging from the upper windows or with window boxes blooming with geraniums. We continued up towards Napoleon's villa, now a museum, which contained some original furnishings, dishes and his hat. With gorgeous views over a garden and out to crystal blue seas, and to the right a stone lighthouse which stood slightly higher as did a fort to the left, it didn't seem so bad a place to be in exile.
We walked up to the walls of the fort, but you couldn't actually enter the interior. From there, we found another way down - stair after stair.
Bryce was hoping to rent a scooter to explore more of Elba, but at noon it seemed they had all been rented, and we were getting a bit cranky. One place still had a car available so when Carolyn knocked him down 10 euros, we rented it and I handed the keys to Bryce while I handled the navigation. Bryce converts easily from right-hand to left-hand drive (or vice versa) and he did an admirable job of maneuvering through the narrow corners and especially the densely parked streets leading to Bordido. You almost had to tuck the exterior mirrors in to pass each other. But since the parking would have required an hour's walk, we continued on to Porcchio, where we found a parking lot first and a restaurant for lunch, second.
Then we made our way to the beach and found a patch of sand at the far end which was big enough for we four that wasn't controlled by a beach hotel. We swam and sunned for about 2 hours, and then drove back to town, returned the car, and boarded the ship with about 1/2 hour to spare before we set sail. As we set sail, we performed a sort of water ballet with our sister ship, Wind Star, as we crossed each other's wakes while everyone waved and took pictures.
Dinner again at the Bistro (you're only supposed to go twice, I think we did four) for the steakhouse experience. Carolyn and Bryce had surf and turf, Ash and I just did the turf, mine preceded by a caesar salad and a cleansing sorbet. On the side, I had the double stuffed baked potato with bacon - Wanda will have to kick it up a notch!
Ash headed to bed, Carolyn to an art lecture, and Bryce and I to the casino. $100 plunked down, I stayed about even until the dealer began pushing my 20 or 19 with his 20 or 19 and then pulling 4 or 5 cards to a 21. Down about half, I retired.
Cruise - Day 2 - Corsica
Another pretty port, a quick walking tour after a shuttle took us into the old town.
We headed back to the ship and had lunch on deck. Bryce, Ash and I had burgers while Carolyn had vichyssois, salmon and fruit. We enjoyed the deck and pool, but we eventually looked for some shade. I think I fell asleep for a short while and Ash and Carolyn were off in the late afternoon for spa treatments - massages for both, nails for Carolyn and a facial for Ash.
Dinner was in the smaller Bistro, a Thai themed dinner with names like 'Tam Kwak Sook'. Luckily, the contents were both well-explained and delicious. Bryce began his habit of ordering two entrees, and, fortunately, he can get away with it!
After another leisurely dinner, we retired around 10 or 10:30 and watched our second film featuring Nicholas Cage, "Matchstick Men". Again playing a character with enough quirks, ticks and phobias to infect an entire cast let alone one character. A really good movie, however, one with plenty of twists.
We headed back to the ship and had lunch on deck. Bryce, Ash and I had burgers while Carolyn had vichyssois, salmon and fruit. We enjoyed the deck and pool, but we eventually looked for some shade. I think I fell asleep for a short while and Ash and Carolyn were off in the late afternoon for spa treatments - massages for both, nails for Carolyn and a facial for Ash.
Dinner was in the smaller Bistro, a Thai themed dinner with names like 'Tam Kwak Sook'. Luckily, the contents were both well-explained and delicious. Bryce began his habit of ordering two entrees, and, fortunately, he can get away with it!
After another leisurely dinner, we retired around 10 or 10:30 and watched our second film featuring Nicholas Cage, "Matchstick Men". Again playing a character with enough quirks, ticks and phobias to infect an entire cast let alone one character. A really good movie, however, one with plenty of twists.
Tuesday, August 23, 2005
Cruise - Day 1
We were able to sleep in a little longer today as we packed and waited our transport to the Wind Surf. Laurence, our driver, arrived at 11:40 ahead of our planned noon departure. He spoke English, but not nearly as well or as informative as Stefano had been, and he didn't narrate any of the trip to the port or our detour to Ceri, an old small walled village with two restaurants, a church and not much else but views of the surrounding vineyards and countryside.
We ate a leisurely lunch and stumbled through ordering with the waitress who spoke no English. After 1 1/2 hours we continued to the port of Civitavecchia, arriving around 3 and were some of the earliest to arrive so our embarkation went quickly.
The cabins were on deck 1 just above the waterline (3 decks of passengers), but it was well laid out and reasonably large with plenty of storage space. We unpacked and then set out to explore the various rooms, bars, restaurants, lounges and the library.
As departure neared, we ordered drinks and relaxed on deck watching the harbor pilot come aboard, speak with the captain, before setting sail. We cleared the small harbor in no time, and the pilot got off on his boat as we sailed at 10 to 12 knots. Before we left, we were required to be in our cabin for a mandatory emergency drill, but the port forbids using the emergency claxons so the captain just announced "now you would hear seven short and one long tone". We then donned our life preservers (Bryce was sure to get our pic), and we headed up to our muster area in the lounge. After all had been accounted for, all the orange-vested passengers were able to return to their cabins.
The sails were unfurled automatically (North Sails - $50k/ea) and we sailed towards Corsica while appetizers and drinks were served. That night, we ate in the dining room, Carolyn and I enjoying the chef's recommendations which featured lamb chops preceded by shrimp appetizer and salad, followed by dessert, and all complimented with three different wines.
Finishing about 10, we retired to our cabin to watch "Adaptations" with Nicholas Cage which we'd borrowed from the library in our previous explorations.
We ate a leisurely lunch and stumbled through ordering with the waitress who spoke no English. After 1 1/2 hours we continued to the port of Civitavecchia, arriving around 3 and were some of the earliest to arrive so our embarkation went quickly.
The cabins were on deck 1 just above the waterline (3 decks of passengers), but it was well laid out and reasonably large with plenty of storage space. We unpacked and then set out to explore the various rooms, bars, restaurants, lounges and the library.
As departure neared, we ordered drinks and relaxed on deck watching the harbor pilot come aboard, speak with the captain, before setting sail. We cleared the small harbor in no time, and the pilot got off on his boat as we sailed at 10 to 12 knots. Before we left, we were required to be in our cabin for a mandatory emergency drill, but the port forbids using the emergency claxons so the captain just announced "now you would hear seven short and one long tone". We then donned our life preservers (Bryce was sure to get our pic), and we headed up to our muster area in the lounge. After all had been accounted for, all the orange-vested passengers were able to return to their cabins.
The sails were unfurled automatically (North Sails - $50k/ea) and we sailed towards Corsica while appetizers and drinks were served. That night, we ate in the dining room, Carolyn and I enjoying the chef's recommendations which featured lamb chops preceded by shrimp appetizer and salad, followed by dessert, and all complimented with three different wines.
Finishing about 10, we retired to our cabin to watch "Adaptations" with Nicholas Cage which we'd borrowed from the library in our previous explorations.
Rome - Saturday
After breakfast, we had a quick walk along the Tiber over to the Villa Borghese via a new quicker route scoped out by Bryce. Long steps from the plaza to the edge of the park revealed the expansive size of the grounds. We were supposed to arrive at 10:30 for our 11 am entry time, but the grounds are much more extensive than we thought and we finally arrived at 10:50.
We toured room after room of ancient and Renaissance master with ceilings decorated in amazingly colorful murals. Everyone's favorite sculpture was Bernini's Rape of Proserpina where the male's fingers compressed the flesh of the Proserpina as if it were soft wax rather than hard marble.
As we exited, we took a more leisurely stroll through the gardens and grabbed a bite off one of the many lunch wagons. Peroni beers and panini and pizza, oh my! A large observation balloon floated overhead a ways off.
After our afternoon rest, we left again for more serious shopping. We sauntered a main shopping blvd and Ash found some great leather boots but Bryce came up empty on a reasonably priced football shirt. Tourists and Italians of all fashions walked by and we observed them all while stopping for an afternoon drink in a small cafe. Continuing on we passed a church with a black cassocked, red cross emblazoned priest hanging out at the entrance.
We ended up eating across the alley from the cafe of Friday night and had another excellent meal. I indulged in fettucine alfredo, but its sauce was not smothered in cream and butter but just enough butter for the parmesan to adhere to. Great! The only disruption as a horse drawn carriage that crashed into a menu sign board attempting to navigate the narrow 'street' and the singing of a young musician who played much better than he sang.
More gelati!!
We toured room after room of ancient and Renaissance master with ceilings decorated in amazingly colorful murals. Everyone's favorite sculpture was Bernini's Rape of Proserpina where the male's fingers compressed the flesh of the Proserpina as if it were soft wax rather than hard marble.
As we exited, we took a more leisurely stroll through the gardens and grabbed a bite off one of the many lunch wagons. Peroni beers and panini and pizza, oh my! A large observation balloon floated overhead a ways off.
After our afternoon rest, we left again for more serious shopping. We sauntered a main shopping blvd and Ash found some great leather boots but Bryce came up empty on a reasonably priced football shirt. Tourists and Italians of all fashions walked by and we observed them all while stopping for an afternoon drink in a small cafe. Continuing on we passed a church with a black cassocked, red cross emblazoned priest hanging out at the entrance.
We ended up eating across the alley from the cafe of Friday night and had another excellent meal. I indulged in fettucine alfredo, but its sauce was not smothered in cream and butter but just enough butter for the parmesan to adhere to. Great! The only disruption as a horse drawn carriage that crashed into a menu sign board attempting to navigate the narrow 'street' and the singing of a young musician who played much better than he sang.
More gelati!!
Rome - Friday
Tired from walking the previous day, we breakfasted on the terrace with expectations of the same physical activity. Breakfast was much better and ants weren't parading through the eggs, but the staff was harried and the coffee wasn't really happening.
We took a cab to the Coliseum and were greeted by Roman soldiers offering pictures for a price (we passed). As were contemplating ticket choices, we were approached about joining an English speaking tour that included admission and bypassed the long entry lines. We chose to spring for the extra bucks and were soon inside the first of the three concentric wall that make up the stadium. We saw where the restoration had cleaned the porous stone and where some was blackened with centuries of contamination.
The stairs leading into the stadium are rather steep and I believe the handrails are a recent addition. I thought of how many must have tripped on their togas as they entered. The guide told us the stadium had been built as a 'gift' to the people of Rome, but also as a way to keep them compliant by providing free spectacles and often free meat from the wild animals killed in 'sport'. Historians say some 5-9k wild beasts were killed in the opening days, not to mention the criminals, slaves, and Christians who would not bow down to the emperor-God.
Imagine being held below the sandy floor of the Coliseum sand to soak up the blood (stadia = sand) waiting for that moment that you would be herded up and into the stadium to face a death by beasts, gladiator or even crucifixion as 50k people cheered your demise. How strong is your faith?
A good portion of the Coliseum was later scavenged for churches and monuments in Rome's later history including the iron or bronze which held massive stones together without mortar.
We left there and entered the Palatine, the hill that once housed a palace of 14k sq. meters high on a hill where Rome's traffic is silent. Fallen columns and portions of walls abound and you think of those Romans who lived here nearly 2000 years ago. Walking down the hill through the Forum, more ruins were everywhere and then up the hill to Mount Capitolina where government offices operate. A great courtyard with an imposing stairway which we descended to the street.
Next door was the monument to Victor Emmanuel. Built in the late 1800s it is a towering presence and fitting monument to the unknown soldier in this city of towering monuments. After cooling our feet in the adjoining fountain, we walked to the Pantheon and ate in the plaza (3 pm) before entering the domed church with a hole at the top of the dome, a dome as high as it is wide. Then some afternoon gelati and a stroll to the Trevi fountain and a cab ride back to the hotel.
Later, it was another dinner at an outdoor cafe around 9 pm followed by the required gelati after a crazy cab ride home - "I'm good driver".
We took a cab to the Coliseum and were greeted by Roman soldiers offering pictures for a price (we passed). As were contemplating ticket choices, we were approached about joining an English speaking tour that included admission and bypassed the long entry lines. We chose to spring for the extra bucks and were soon inside the first of the three concentric wall that make up the stadium. We saw where the restoration had cleaned the porous stone and where some was blackened with centuries of contamination.
The stairs leading into the stadium are rather steep and I believe the handrails are a recent addition. I thought of how many must have tripped on their togas as they entered. The guide told us the stadium had been built as a 'gift' to the people of Rome, but also as a way to keep them compliant by providing free spectacles and often free meat from the wild animals killed in 'sport'. Historians say some 5-9k wild beasts were killed in the opening days, not to mention the criminals, slaves, and Christians who would not bow down to the emperor-God.
Imagine being held below the sandy floor of the Coliseum sand to soak up the blood (stadia = sand) waiting for that moment that you would be herded up and into the stadium to face a death by beasts, gladiator or even crucifixion as 50k people cheered your demise. How strong is your faith?
A good portion of the Coliseum was later scavenged for churches and monuments in Rome's later history including the iron or bronze which held massive stones together without mortar.
We left there and entered the Palatine, the hill that once housed a palace of 14k sq. meters high on a hill where Rome's traffic is silent. Fallen columns and portions of walls abound and you think of those Romans who lived here nearly 2000 years ago. Walking down the hill through the Forum, more ruins were everywhere and then up the hill to Mount Capitolina where government offices operate. A great courtyard with an imposing stairway which we descended to the street.
Next door was the monument to Victor Emmanuel. Built in the late 1800s it is a towering presence and fitting monument to the unknown soldier in this city of towering monuments. After cooling our feet in the adjoining fountain, we walked to the Pantheon and ate in the plaza (3 pm) before entering the domed church with a hole at the top of the dome, a dome as high as it is wide. Then some afternoon gelati and a stroll to the Trevi fountain and a cab ride back to the hotel.
Later, it was another dinner at an outdoor cafe around 9 pm followed by the required gelati after a crazy cab ride home - "I'm good driver".
Rome - Thursday
After traveling most of the day on Tuesday (late) and Wednesday, August 9th and 10th, we met up with Ashley and Bryce in Heathrow. Bryce found us in the airport and there were hugs all around and plenty of conversation.
Met by Stefano of Rome Cabs as we exited customs, he quickly took us to his van and we headed into Rome with a running commentary on the sights as he took us to our hotel, Hotel Isa near the Vatican.
After checking in, we walked about and found a restaurant where the waiter kept pouring wine over the 2 1/2 hours of dining even though we'd only paid for 3/4 liter. Then it was to St. Peter's Square around 11 pm which was blocked off by railings and circling police cars but beautifully lit in the Roman night. We got a little disoriented on our way back to the hotel, and with no taxis around, I tried my feeble Italian ("scuze") while showing the hotel's business card to several shop/restaurant owners who were able to give us enough hand signals so we could find our hotel a little after midnight.
Thursday morning I awoke with a slight headache (wine and jet lag) but the buffet breakfast on the rooftop terrace helped. Unfortunately, at 9 am most of the food was cleaned out, but we made do with fruit, very strong coffee, cheese, sliced meat and rolls.
We walked back to Vatican City (appropriately dressed) to the museum which cost 12 euros/person and toured Etruscan and early Roman artifacts and sculptures before entering the rooms of Renaissance paintings and then into the Sistine chapel.
It was crowded with wall to wall people all craning their necks up to the ceiling to watch Michelangelo's amazing murals! "Silence, please" was the constant refrain from the guards (always in English) and the volume would dip and then the murmur would rise within seconds as friends pointed out the many amazing Biblical scenes in vivid colors to each other. We sat along the wall with heads craned upwards to see Michelangelo's vision of the Day of Judgment or the creation of man or Adam and Eve's fall. Bryce read from his tour book to us about each scene as we added to the murmuring of the crowd.
Upon exiting, we headed to a local restaurant where we ate lunch at a fashionable 2 pm. We chose inside because it was "air conditioned" and the outside was humid only to find a/c meant more than one fan. The other three had lasagne while I had spaghetti with tomato and bacon. All were very good and the portion size was reasonable.
We walked towards St. Peter's and stopped for gelati at a small shop. As we ate under a canopy, lightning struck a few miles away with a large bang and it began to rain, but just for a short time which helped to clear out the crowds waiting for St. Peter's at least for a short while.
St. Peter's is HUGE with the length of two football fields and a height of over seven stories. Tall columns support the elaborate roof and 6 foot high wording rims the inside just below the curve of the ceiling. Elaborate marble designs (some taken from the Coliseum) make for an amazing floor.
Back to the hotel for a two hour nap, we left again around 6:30 via a taxi as Bryce led us on a walking tour from Rick Steeve's book - Trevi fountain, Spanish steps, the Pantheon, Bernini's fountain. We ate in a plaza with good pasta and wine and then watched the artists and street musicians (Italians love accordions). Taking a taxi from the Spanish steps to our hotel, we walked four blocks for our evening gelati fix before calling it a night.
Met by Stefano of Rome Cabs as we exited customs, he quickly took us to his van and we headed into Rome with a running commentary on the sights as he took us to our hotel, Hotel Isa near the Vatican.
After checking in, we walked about and found a restaurant where the waiter kept pouring wine over the 2 1/2 hours of dining even though we'd only paid for 3/4 liter. Then it was to St. Peter's Square around 11 pm which was blocked off by railings and circling police cars but beautifully lit in the Roman night. We got a little disoriented on our way back to the hotel, and with no taxis around, I tried my feeble Italian ("scuze") while showing the hotel's business card to several shop/restaurant owners who were able to give us enough hand signals so we could find our hotel a little after midnight.
Thursday morning I awoke with a slight headache (wine and jet lag) but the buffet breakfast on the rooftop terrace helped. Unfortunately, at 9 am most of the food was cleaned out, but we made do with fruit, very strong coffee, cheese, sliced meat and rolls.
We walked back to Vatican City (appropriately dressed) to the museum which cost 12 euros/person and toured Etruscan and early Roman artifacts and sculptures before entering the rooms of Renaissance paintings and then into the Sistine chapel.
It was crowded with wall to wall people all craning their necks up to the ceiling to watch Michelangelo's amazing murals! "Silence, please" was the constant refrain from the guards (always in English) and the volume would dip and then the murmur would rise within seconds as friends pointed out the many amazing Biblical scenes in vivid colors to each other. We sat along the wall with heads craned upwards to see Michelangelo's vision of the Day of Judgment or the creation of man or Adam and Eve's fall. Bryce read from his tour book to us about each scene as we added to the murmuring of the crowd.
Upon exiting, we headed to a local restaurant where we ate lunch at a fashionable 2 pm. We chose inside because it was "air conditioned" and the outside was humid only to find a/c meant more than one fan. The other three had lasagne while I had spaghetti with tomato and bacon. All were very good and the portion size was reasonable.
We walked towards St. Peter's and stopped for gelati at a small shop. As we ate under a canopy, lightning struck a few miles away with a large bang and it began to rain, but just for a short time which helped to clear out the crowds waiting for St. Peter's at least for a short while.
St. Peter's is HUGE with the length of two football fields and a height of over seven stories. Tall columns support the elaborate roof and 6 foot high wording rims the inside just below the curve of the ceiling. Elaborate marble designs (some taken from the Coliseum) make for an amazing floor.
Back to the hotel for a two hour nap, we left again around 6:30 via a taxi as Bryce led us on a walking tour from Rick Steeve's book - Trevi fountain, Spanish steps, the Pantheon, Bernini's fountain. We ate in a plaza with good pasta and wine and then watched the artists and street musicians (Italians love accordions). Taking a taxi from the Spanish steps to our hotel, we walked four blocks for our evening gelati fix before calling it a night.
Back Home Again
Well, Monday was a long day - 33 hours in fact. I left our hotel in Nice,
France at 5:45 am and flew to Zurich (1.5 hours) then after a 2 hour layover on to Dallas (10.5 hours) and was able to grab an earlier flight to Orange County arriving home at 6 pm and nine time zones later. I'll pick up my checked bag later today.
I was able to sleep/nap about an hour on the Dallas leg and about two on the OC portion. Arriving home to only two phone messages, but two LARGE piles of mail, Darla greeted me with a plate of pork, green beans and rice, which I was too tired to eat or at least my stomach was too confused. It will make a great dinner tonight.
Gracie was glad to see me and is requiring a lot of petting and only bit me once as a reminder that I haven't been around in two weeks.
I'm up early today, around 4:30, and I've showered and will head off to work after some internet e-mail reading/deleting in a little while.
I'll be posting about our GREAT trip over the next few days, so keep checking back. And, by the way, Carolyn is in Edinburgh with Ashley and Bryce for a nine day extension on her vacation.
France at 5:45 am and flew to Zurich (1.5 hours) then after a 2 hour layover on to Dallas (10.5 hours) and was able to grab an earlier flight to Orange County arriving home at 6 pm and nine time zones later. I'll pick up my checked bag later today.
I was able to sleep/nap about an hour on the Dallas leg and about two on the OC portion. Arriving home to only two phone messages, but two LARGE piles of mail, Darla greeted me with a plate of pork, green beans and rice, which I was too tired to eat or at least my stomach was too confused. It will make a great dinner tonight.
Gracie was glad to see me and is requiring a lot of petting and only bit me once as a reminder that I haven't been around in two weeks.
I'm up early today, around 4:30, and I've showered and will head off to work after some internet e-mail reading/deleting in a little while.
I'll be posting about our GREAT trip over the next few days, so keep checking back. And, by the way, Carolyn is in Edinburgh with Ashley and Bryce for a nine day extension on her vacation.
Monday, August 08, 2005
T Minus 1
Well, tomorrow we fly from LAX to Heathrow to meet up with Ashley and Bryce and then on to Rome. I'll believe it when I'm in the air.
I've been trying to get everyone at work to provide me with their proforma requests early enough, but I'm still expecting a huge surge late this afternoon as they all find one last thing that needs to be done. But if they arrive at 5:01, they'll be a minute too late.
This weekend we spent most of our time getting ready. I bought a new bag which could actually be used as a carry-on and I've tried to limit the number of garments I'm bringing. Seems to be easier for me than Carolyn.
I'm hoping Rome isn't too humid/hot, but that may be asking a lot. I'm looking forward most to sitting on deck and watching the Italian and French coasts pass by. Travelogues and pictures to follow on our return.
I've been trying to get everyone at work to provide me with their proforma requests early enough, but I'm still expecting a huge surge late this afternoon as they all find one last thing that needs to be done. But if they arrive at 5:01, they'll be a minute too late.
This weekend we spent most of our time getting ready. I bought a new bag which could actually be used as a carry-on and I've tried to limit the number of garments I'm bringing. Seems to be easier for me than Carolyn.
I'm hoping Rome isn't too humid/hot, but that may be asking a lot. I'm looking forward most to sitting on deck and watching the Italian and French coasts pass by. Travelogues and pictures to follow on our return.
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