Tuesday, July 18, 2006

Amsterdam - A Land of Bikes

Friday, July 7, we flew directly from Edinburgh to Amsterdam and caught a taxi to the Hotel Toro (I kind of like that name) which is located in a very quiet section of the city, just down from the British Consulate, and across a pond from the Vondelpark, a beautiful, large park where people were constantly jogging, biking, sunning and picnicking.



Saturday, we grabbed a tram into the heart of the city and honored Rembrandt by visiting his works in the Rijkmuseum along with other old masters like Vermeer. In one room, they had a great 'light' show which focused your attention on various people or techniques in Rembrandt's "Night Watch". We made our way up to the Central train station and rented four bikes from MacBike for the better part of the week (I've never seen so many bikes in one place!). We wandered past canals, eating at a canalside cafe, through Dam Square, and finally back through the Vondelpark to our hotel.


Sunday, we broke out the travel Scrabble and Carolyn and I tried to stay within shouting distance (score-wise) of the two scholars without a lot of success. Then it was off to the Van Gogh museum, enjoying a snack of Dutch pancakes and fritters, and later followed by a canal tour (homes built on pilings don't all remain vertical). Bicycling with Bryce as our navigator, we made our way around the city, had dinner at Wagamamas, and made it back to the hotel in time to watch the World Cup finals. I didn't cry when France lost.


Monday, we bicycled to Anne Frank's house and toured the 'apartment' where up to eight people hid from the Nazis. It wasn't as small as I'd imagined, but with eight people, covered windows and the need to remain silent during work hours, it was claustrophobic enough. Only Otto, the father, survived the concentration camps. Another canal-side lunch and more bicycling through the city and the Vondelpark was followed by a wonderful (and expensive) dinner at the Blue Pepper, an Indonesian restaurant recommended by Roy from the hotel. A late evening of Scrabble finished the evening with Bryce smoking us with his first word (Allstars) which used all seven letters and was worth 77 points.

Carolyn and I went off on our own to Haarlem by train the next day. Amsterdam is the only place I've seen a multi-story parking structure just for bikes! We walked through the city, visited Corrie ten Boom's museum where we saw the small (24" deep) hiding place that hid Jews and resistance members during the occupation. Dinner was take-away pizza and beer back at the hotel.


Wednesday, the four of us ventured out of Amsterdam by train to Den Haag where we went to the Maurithuis and saw Vemeer's, Rembrandt's, Van Dyck's and Rubens' along with other artists. After lunch, we walked and walked and finally found the International Court of Justice which is only open by prior appointment, but it was an impressive looking building with gorgeous grounds. We bought bread, cheese and wine for a dinner on the hotel's veranda overlooking Vondelpark.

Our final full day in Amsterdam, we set out to the train station to go to Utrecht, a small town southeast of Amsterdam with canals which we were told was quite attractive. With Bryce leading the way, our party of four got strung out a little, and after several turns on various small roads, I looked back and found that Carolyn was no longer behind me. We spent the next twenty minutes or so searching to no avail so we continued on to the train station hoping she had found her way there. Bryce found her waiting in front of the train depot after already turning in her rental bike. After settling down from that episode, off we went. We stopped at a musical instrument museum but when we found it cost more than seeing Rembrandt, we passed and continued past canals, shops and into the large vaulted church.

But it was at lunch, that the day got really interesting. We found a cafe that had tables and chairs right alongside the canal so you could watch the various water craft passing by as you ate. Ashley and I sat opposite each other nearest the canal (about 1.5 feet away) and Bryce and Carolyn sat inboard of us. We had nearly finished lunch when Ashley in trying to adjust her chair, caught a chair leg on the cobblestone, and suddenly her chair was tipping towards the canal. As it tipped, her center of gravity shifted, and there was Ashley doing her best impression of a 1940's musical featuring synchronized swimmers, as both hands raised over her head she practically dove into the canal!! This before either Bryce or I could halt her momentum. In a moment, she was fully immersed; a second later, Bryce and I were pulling her from the water while Bryce shouted at some lady who was taking video at the time (perhaps Ashley will be soon starring in a Dutch version of Funniest Videos).

The waiter pointed Ashley and Bryce to the restrooms while saying that it (falling in the canal) happens every so often. So while Ashley tried to dry off under the hand driers, Carolyn went power shopping, returning in about 15 minutes with a whole new outfit (minus shoes) - skirt, blouse and underwear. Thankfully, Ashley wasn't hurt and actually laughed about it which allowed us to laugh as well. One waiter from Israel told me that when he had first arrived in Utrecht, he had never seen running water and was convinced by a 'friend' that it was shallow enough to walk on, so he tried to do his best Jesus impression and failed faster than Peter.

If this picture had been taken at the right moment, Ashley's head would have been appearing in the lower left hand side of this photo. Needless to say, that finished our adventures and we headed back to Amsterdam to pack for Friday's departure - me to home, Ashley, Bryce and Carolyn for two days in London and then back to Edinburgh through the 25th when all three will be heading back to California.

Monday, July 17, 2006

Week in Edinburgh

We began our trip to visit Ashley and Bryce and celebrate Bryce's graduation on June 30, a Friday. I'd taken a day off as our flight left at 5:50 and I didn't need the hassle of driving to and from Upland for a half days work. Intending to leave at 1:30, we actually left around 2:00 only to find as we entered the freeway that Carolyn had not brought her sunglasses. So a quick trip back home and we were heading to LAX at 2:15. Then, around the 55 we began to hit traffic and my stress level began to rise, but we muddled through the traffic and after parking our car, we arrived around 3:30.

Plenty of time, until I made an error and after asking a TSA employee, got in the baggage security line before checking in with British Air. Wrong! After waiting 20 minutes or so, I was told I had to check in first only to find the BA line almost Disneyesque in its length and circuitousness. But they were fairly efficient and we even landed the bulkhead seats. Carolyn scouted out the shortest baggage check line and we made it to the gate as they began to board.

Flying through the night, we transitted in London and arrived in Edinburgh around 4 pm to be greeted by Bryce who drove out in his dad's rental car to ferry us to their flat. John and Sally had arrived a week earlier and taken the 'kids' to the Isle of Skye. So through Friday morning, there would be six adults in their flat with one bathroom and Bryce and Ashley forsaking their bedroom for rollaways in the living room. Troopers!

That Saturday night, we had stir fry in the flat and then walked down to a local pub for a few beers while we watched one of the semi-final games of the World Cup and Bryce and John expounded on the intricacies of the offside rule.

Sunday, John had an offer he couldn't refuse - to play golf at Muirfield while the five of us went off to church at New Restalrig and prayed for his soul (just kiddin'). Then it was off for Indian food for lunch and walk around the National Art Gallery looking at Rembrandt's etchings and other old Masters. We timed it right as the heavens unleashed rain while we were inside and we saw several people come in the museum who had not been so lucky. Ashley made a great French onion soup for dinner along with fresh fruit which was followed by a challenging game of Cranium and a short walk in the twilight at 11 pm!

Monday, we walked the Botanic gardens, the Royal Mile down to Holyrood Palace (finding it closed in anticipation of the Queen's arrival within hours), had lunch at Deacon Brodie's pub and even tasted a little haggis. That evening the six of us huddled around the laptop to watch "Love Actually". Tuesday, July 4th, Bryce, Carolyn and I celebrated by touring the Whiskey center, and for dinner we had all-American tacos and some desserts we had picked up from Peckhams including their last slice of apple pie. Then the competition really got fierce as we engaged in a game of Scrum (ask the Hales - sr. or jr.) where the losers wear their shame proudly.


Wednesday was Bryce's graduation at the University of Glasgow which was founded a measly 555 years ago. Bryce has on his full Scottish regalia with clerical tartan kilt. It was rather warm though and it couldn't have been that comfortable in his wool and robe as I was sweltering in a sport coat. The ceremony was serious and included at least two prayers in Latin that we were requested to recite aloud. Then it was off to a favorite Glasgow Indian restaurant for dinner before we stopped at the Necropolis on the way home.

Thursday while the Hales took a drive to the English border, Carolyn, Bryce and I (Ashley was continuing to do work on her doctorate) made it up to Camera Obscura near the Castle which displays old photographic techniques as well as optical illusions, etc. A quick stop at the Jolly Judge Pub, then it was off to do some shopping at an art supply store and the National Gallery.

Dinner that evening was back by the Castle at the Witchery at 6:30. Ashley led the walk, striding out a good clip while the rest of us tried to keep up. By the time, we made it (around 6:35), I was ready to take off my coat and have a cocktail. It's a very fine restaurant, and John was kind enough to spring for the entire bill. Of course, Ashley's doctoral graduation dinner is on me! We four parents stopped by the Cumberland Pub to say hello as Ashley and Bryce celebrated his graduation with a number of their friends, but we quickly decided that this was a younger person event.

Friday, we're out the door by 9 and on our way to Amsterdam as the Hales head back to California. More pictures can be found here.